Canyons Bed and Breakfast

Jacob Hamblin Arch, by Sneaker Route to Coyote Gulch

The shortcut to Jacob Hamblin Arch is also known as the Sneaker Route, Water Tank Trail or Jacob Hamblin Trail. But "shortcut" does not mean "easy." The lack of accurate information on this route can make it dangerous! We've had unprepared guests pulled out by helicopter simply due to the heat in July. Not to mention the 200 foot 45 degree cliff that some decide is just too steep to attempt. We thought we better check it out for ourselves during cooler weather. The last day of April was a perfect time to go. While Escalante temperatures were 80/50, we estimate this nearby desert wilderness was 85/60, though the low may have been lower if we had camped above the protected Canyon.

What's with the different mileage estimates? Must be due to the fact that the downhill route to the canyon edge seems like 2 miles (still could take over an hour plodding through sand and rocky mars-scape) but the uphill route back seems like 3 miles and may take 2 hours, and that's after (and if) you make it up the 200 foot cliff. A 6 mile round trip is the best estimate all the way to the arch and back, plus more exploring in the canyon.

Do I need a Rope? For the Sneaker Route, YES! Even young fit hikers have been known to loose footing and slide 20 feet on skinned knees. Serious injury is possible! At the very least, take a 30 foot length of webbing - that's if one of you is a confident climber and can help the others through difficult spots by holding the rope. To be even more safe, take 150 feet of rope to tie (using a bowline knot) around a large boulder about 1/3 of the way down, to the left. It's true that you might get lucky and find a rope already there, like we did, but it will likely be removed by the owner right before you exit the canyon, leaving you in a hard place! This is exactly what happend to us, but we did have our own rope and yes we needed it!

To find the trailhead: Set your odometer when you leave highway 12. Drive down Hole In The Rock Rd for 36.2 miles, then turn left at 40 Mile Ridge Rd (or Coyote Gulch Rd on your map) for 4.3 miles. Depending on your vehicle, this will take 1 1/2 -2 1/2 hours! Cars won't make it if muddy. The trailhead is uphill on the left, by a water tank. At the trailhead, don't forget to fill out your free backcountry pass, so the rangers will know where to find you if you don't return. Other Routes: We have heard there is an easier route by way of Chimney Rock, but you may need a local guide to find the trail. To hike a loop and see more of the canyon, drive a little further to the Coyote Gulch Trailhead (with a 4-wheel drive) and take the Crack-in-the-Wall Route, a 14-17 mile loop depending on your map & navigation skills.

The Trail: The sandy trail gets more difficult to follow when you get to the slick rock, but there are plenty of cairns, passing just to the left of a high ridge. If you do get lost, head due north to the canyon edge, then look for the huge white "bird" mark on the far-side of the canyon (See photo). This marks the "sneaker route" down. Maps: We highly recommend two trail Aps. It's worth it to pay $20 a year for a dependable App like Gaia GPS. We also like the free version of All Trails for certain things, like hiker commentary, but the free maps sometimes disappear when you need them most. If you are into paper maps, stop by the visitor's center in Escalante.

The Descent: Once at the cliff edge, go carefully down the center crack as far as it is safe. If a friend can hold a rope, you can continue straight down, looking for dim carved foot-holds here and there. If you have a long rope to tie off, go to the left and look for the large blackish boulder. Leave your rope even if one is there! Near the bottom, there is another place where a short rope could come in handy, especially for coming back up. Maybe bring a second short rope?

Left to the Arch: Once at the bottom of Coyote Gulch, turn left and you will soon come to amazing Jacob Hamblin Arch, where there are a number of camping areas nearby. They are somewhat close to the river, so please don't camp here if a storm is expected! If you don't have camping equipment, you can do this in one day, if you start very early, then cool off & re-fuel in the canyon before the tough hike out. Much more relaxing to set up camp, explore down the river a bit, rehydrate some backpacker food on a tiny camp stove (no fires allowed), get a good night's sleep, then climb and hike out the next morning.

Burr Trail, Singing Canyon & Strike Valley Overlook (driving tour & short hikes)

If you are in the mood for an amazing driving tour with short hikes, head to Boulder, then down super-scenic BURR TRAIL RD all the way to the Switchbacks (34 miles from Boulder, UT) there are a couple short hikes we like to recommend along the way. One is SINGING CANYON for the non-hiker, the other is STRIKE VALLEY OVERLOOK, about a mile if you have 4-wheel drive & it's not too muddy to get to the trailhead.

From Boulder, at Burr Trail Rd, set your odometer to zero. At approx 11.8 miles, look for a quick stop along the way called Long Canyon Slot or Singing Canyon. It is unmarked, but popular, and you might find someone playing a wooden flute to hear the echo. Not sure which turnout? It's on the left, about a mile after a switchback. There is no sign, and no left turn, just enough room for 4 cars to park along the left side of the road. You might spy the deep & narrow slot canyon in the cliff, but look close because it's hiding behind a cottonwood tree. Don't bother taking a water bottle. This is a 5 minute hike. To find trailheads easier, try downloading the ALL TRAILS App (free version), type in the name of the hike and it will map you there.

Keep driving down Long Canyon, because it just gets better, and the viewpoint at the end overlooks a painted desert. Then, the scenery is more open and eventually turns to a good dirt road as you enter Capitol Reef.

2-4 miles after the road turns to dirt, you will be in a pretty valley and see a sign on the left, "UPPER MULEY TWIST CANYON." Turn left here, and the jeep trail will take you towards the STRIKE VALLEY OVERLOOK TRAIL - a must-see view of the spectacular 100-mile long Waterpocket Fold that forms Capitol Reef. With 4-wheel drive, this will be a 3 mile drive on a sometimes challenging jeep road (with views of little arches along the way) then a 1/2 mile hike to the overlook. Otherwise, it's maybe 1/2 a mile to the first parking area and a 6.5 mile hike. Short, compared to the 14 mile Upper Muley Twist loop!

Back to Burr Trail road, it's just a couple more miles to the switchbacks. Definitely drive to the bottom to view the enormous rock formation you just drove through, then maybe save the Overlook hike for last. Better yet, drive out to the Overlook on Easter Weekend to fly a kite! Ours was lost down a cliff and may never be found...

Here's another good description of this hike, with a printable map: RoadTripRyan.com

CORONAVIRUS UPDATE: (May 1, 2020) Please call Capitol Reef National Park to see if the Strike Valley Overlook trail is open.

Garden Smoothies & Deer-Repelling Flowers

I have to admit, composting is not my thing. We have all kinds of kitchen scraps every day, but can't seem to get them to break down in this dry climate, especially since my interest in the project wanes after a month. I've been handing off the composting chore to our workcampers, but then I realized that my VitaMix blender has not been put to much use lately. What a shame. I did a little research to see if others are using a blender method, and it turns out to be a viable means and composting! Better yet, I actually enjoy feeding my garden disgusting looking smoothies!

Every day, we have a tall blender full of kitchen scraps. I add water, blend them up, and then grab my hand trowel on the way out the back door. I look for a weed trying to invade my garden, dig up the roots, and pour the nourishing concoction into the hole for the worms and ants to break down. When I have a lot of egg shells, banana peels and coffee grounds, I fertilize the rose bushes, as those happen to be the nutrients they crave. Awesome, right?

I've been feeling quite happy thinking about happy worms in my garden, until one morning I discovered that some deer has been strolling and munching through my strawberry patch again. Grrrr. In search of creative ideas to deter them, I noticed the lovely plastic flowers my daughter made from soda bottles back in high school. They look cute in a vase, but I have to admit they are adorable in the garden. Don't you think? And that deer hasn't been back yet! I'm thinking I need a hundred more of these flowers for the rest of the garden. Service project anyone?

A Day in the Canyons with Excursions of Escalante!

I like to get to the point quickly, so I am not going to waste words here.... I just have to say that Rick at Excursions of Escalante is one awesome guide!! He takes time to get to know each person in the group, he teaches teamwork that makes all the difference in the canyons, he's patient with all ages, he's funny, and he knows which slot canyons is right for you. He's Mr. Safety First, with candy in his pocket for those with low blood sugar, and he's an expert who's been saving lives in the canyons for years. We highly recommend that while staying here at Canyons Bed & Breakfast for a few days, that you cross the street to meet Rick and his lovely wife Amie, who will be packing a fine lunch for your big adventure!

Some things to consider: You will need some real shoes (no sandals of any kind) with good traction, and clothes that can possibly get ripped or stained with red mud. If you don't have these things, Amie will send you down the street to the thrift store, so be prepared and no short-shorts! Just bring your sunscreen and camera. Everything else is provided.

Groups often meet at 8:00 in the morning and return around 4:00, but each trip can be customized to meet the needs of your group. Be ready for an amazing day of awesome views, twisted canyons that really do require a guide to find your way, possible rapelling, and be prepared to learn fun new skills to make it possible to get past the tough spots. This will be a day you will never forget!

Headed to Lower Calf Creek Falls... in the Fall

During the last week of October we have fewer guests, since there is the possibility of cooler weather. But this year, it was the most beautiful week of the month. The sun was out with a high around 70, and the leave are turning - perfect conditions for hiking the 6 mile round trip to Lower Calf Creek Falls. The trees in the canyon are every assortment of colors at this time.

Plenty of guests like to take this hike in the summer, and this is a great option if you want to sunbathe in the hot sand and cool off in chilly waters. It's a pretty melow hike without much elevation, and there are places to cool off in the creek along the way, but for some, the canyon may not look nearly as pretty through sweat dripping down your face in 98 degree weather! If you are tough enough to not mind the heat, be sure to carry more than one puny water bottle per person, and consider skipping breakfast to hike early. Then again, if you are staying at Canyons B&B, skipping our homemade breakfast is a tough choice! But, we'll give you a To-Go bag with hard-boiled eggs, fresh bread and fruit, and a few other things.

To find the trailhead at Lower Calf Creek Campground (from Escalante), drive east on Highway 12 for 19 miles, and look for the campground on your left, downhill by the creek. There is a parking area with camp hosts, bathrooms, hiking info, and a small day use fee. If you take a flyer, it will point out things to see along the way, like an indian grainary built high into the cliff or a large petroglyph panel that can be seen all the way across the canyon!

Hiking the Petrified Forest

For our guests who don't have time to venture down Hole-In-The-Rock Road, we like to recommend a short hike in an ancient Petrified Forest. I love this 2 mile scenic loop late in the day, for the beautiful sunset ending overlooking the reservoir.

For the non-hikers, there's a lot of petrified wood to see on both sides of the parking area, including a huge tree. From the south side of the parking lot, the winding trail goes up the mesa. It's a bit steep, and not for everyone, but once at the top, the trail is pretty flat. Half way around the main 1 mile loop, you will find the optional 3/4 mile loop, which is highly recommended for the plentiful petrified wood, diverse terrain, and canyon view.

The Escalante Petrified Forest State Park is just west of Escalante. From town, take highway 12 about 3/4 of a mile, then look for Reservoir Rd on the right, which leads directly into the park, where there is also swimming and camping. Pay a minimal fee per car, pick up a map, then head to the right to find the trails at the foot of the mesa.

No Mormons in Utah?

Hi, I'm Julie, and I'm a Mormon.... at your service to clear up any rumors you've heard about our church before you arrive here in Utah. We Utahns are not technically "Mormon," as that nickname was given to the church by others. It's more correct to say I'm a Christian who belongs to The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints. A Saint, you say? Is that why I'm glowing? In biblical times, the "saints" were simply the dedicated followers of Christ. We're no different, just the believers here in the latter days.... The Latter-day Saints. (That's LDS, not LSD. No recreational drugs here!)

Some are still under the impression that Mormons are mainly in Utah. That was true back when this town of Escalante was settled by Mormon pioneers in the late 1800's. Back then, new members of the church from Europe and elsewhere were eager to travel to Utah to live among the saints and enjoy the blessing of the restored gospel of Jesus Christ. These days, young missionaries (about 70,000 annually) are spreading the gospel around the world. By the year 2080, with current growth, the church is expected to be among the top 4 worldwide religions (Wikipedia). Things sure have changed!

When people visit our churches, they're often surprised to find a church full of sincere and dedicated Christians. "But we heard Mormons are not Christians!" Yep, we've heard it all. Are you Amish? (No, not related). Do you wear make-up? (On good days, yes, but no tatoos). Do you believe in the Bible? (Yes, as far as it is translated correctly.) Do you believe people of other churches are going to hell? (Um, NO! God judges our hearts.) We also believe that missionary work continues in the spirit world, as a loving God would never keep anyone in the dark. Are you trying to work your way to heaven through good works? (As if that were possible, really?) What about Polygamy? Poligamy is illegal - and we're law-abiding - so we don't practice polygamy (except for some rebellious break-offs of our church). When it was legal, some members were allowed to practice this law. As in Old Testament times, there are righteous and unrighteous ways to practice polygamy, and it certainly can be better than widows and single moms living in poverty (as in the Book of Ruth).

How about the more important questions? Why do you have more scriptures like The Book of Mormon? Because God speaks to more than one nation, such as some lost tribes of Israel, who also testify of him. In this day and age when the fastest growing belief is to no longer believe, how wonderful to have another testament of Jesus Christ! How are you different from other Christian Churches? We believe the fullness of the gospel of Jesus Christ has been restored to the earth and is always led by a prophet and apostles, who lead by revelation, as Peter taught. Another interesting difference is that leaders in our church are not paid. All members share in leadership responsibilities at different times!

Looking for a real Utah experience? Church is at 9:30 and 11:30 and all are welcome, even in your hiking clothes, though we dress up if possible. Schedules may vary on occasion, such as when the prophet and apostles speak from SLC by worldwide Satellite broadcast. You can listen to these "General Conference" talks and learn more at ChurchofJesusChrist.org. Or, on Amazon, download a free kindle version of Saints: The Story of The Church of Jesus Christ in the Latter Days. Be prepared, it's not the short version or the fun "historical fiction" version called "The Work and the Glory."

When you visit Escalante, you will find a town with much diversity, where the locals are not pushy about religion at all, and people of all faiths seem to get along fine. But if you ask, you'll see that we love to share our faith and testimony of Christ.

Your host,
Julie

Antelope Canyon or Escalante Slot Canyons?

Gary, our guest and a distance runner, brought up the subject of the day. Why pay big money for a guided tour through crowded Antelope Canyon (Page, Arizona) when the slot canyons around Escalante are of similar beauty.... and free? Here, you can go at your own speed, which for Gary was at a run (except when scaling rocks) to see every slot canyon he could find in two days! Which brings us to Gary's next good point. One night in Escalante is just not enough to see all there is to see in these parts. Good thing we had an opening for him to stay another night!

You gotta love our guests. After meeting Gary, we decided that anyone running over 15 miles a day through slot canyons can have breakfast twice! Last we saw he was picking up pears in the yard, and puting them in his backpack for his next adventure. Go Gary!

Photo taken by our guest, Taylor Duncan, who sells aluminum photos and ships them anywhere. Visit TaylorDuncanPhotography.com